Article continued… Canadian Hemp

Hemp fiber has been used by mankind to make eco clothes since before recorded history. It is currently thought that hemp is the oldest cultivated plant in the world with uses dating back to the stone age. Bits of hemp fabric have been found dating back to about 8,000 B.C. revealing the oldest example of human industry. Fiber imprints have been found in pottery shards in both China and Taiwan dating back an estimated 10,000 years. Archeologists believe that, in addition to flax, hemp has been weaved since the Neolithic period right through to the middle ages. Hemp has a more recent history as well in a variety of applications (including an important role in early America) and has been a very valuable crop leading up to the modern era.

While the fiber is one of the most valuable parts of the hemp plant (commonly referred to as Bast) used in the creation of textiles, industrial hemp has a wide range of uses including but not limited to paper, cordage, bio-fuel, health food and biodegradable plastics. While truly a remarkable plant, the purpose of this article is to examine the use of hemp fiber in the manufacturing of textiles and ultimately clothing. We will also look at the sustainability of hemp as a crop but highly encourage you to research and explore some of the other roles this important plant plays. You will undoubtedly be led into an eye-opening and wondrous path regarding hemp’s many uses and colorful history.

Crop Sustainability:

Unlike cotton, which accounts for approximately 50% of all chemicals (pesticides, herbicides, etc.) used in American agriculture today, hemp requires virtually none. Hemp is naturally resistant to most pests and grows very densely. As a result, it does not need chemicals having practically no weed or insect enemies. It has been noted that when grown in rotation, pests in future crops are actually reduced. In addition, the plant is an excellent source of oxygen production. With each growth cycle the soil is renewed returning from 60-70% of the nutrients it takes. Its long roots aerate soil for the benefit of future crops, remove toxins and prevent soil erosion as well. As a crop, hemp requires little to no fertilizer and grows quickly and effortlessly in moderate climates. From a cost perspective, hemp is less expensive to farm because of its minimal growth requirements. Canadian hemp farmers are earning 10X the revenue per acre than American grain farmers making hemp a viable alternative to crops experiencing reduced demand. Perhaps tobacco farmers should take notice!

Compared to cotton or flax, hemp is considered a high-yield crop producing significantly more fiber per square foot and with less water requirements. When grown on the same land, hemp will produce twice the amount of fiber as cotton and six times that of flax. It would take four acres of trees to yield the same amount of fiber as a mere one acre of hemp. In other words, hemp can yield 4X the amount of fiber of an average size forest. What an extremely productive natural fiber! Trees on the other hand require 50 to 500 years to grow were as hemp can yield three to four times annually (approx. 100 day life cycle). Hemp cultivation could significantly decrease if not completely stop the destruction of our forests!

Hemp Fiber:

Up until the 1920’s, approx. 80% of all garments were made from hemp textiles. Even the now famous Levi Strauss used a light weight hemp canvas for its original pair of jeans. Since that time, hemp has been used to make many types of garments and accessories. Big names such as Patagonia, Adidas, Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani and Ralph Lauren have recently marketed products made from hemp.

The valuable bast fibers, which give the plant its strength, are contained within the hollow wood-like core of the plants stalk under the outer most bark. Grown densely packed (up to 150 plants per square meter), tall plants suitable for the production of the long primary bast fibers are the result. The hemp fibers run the length of the plant anywhere from 3 to 15 ft long.The primary fibers average 8″ in length and can be spun or woven into a fine linen-like type fabric. These fibers are now commonly blended with other fibers such as flax, cotton, wool, linen or silk.A variety of tactile experiences can be created by weaving hemp as intricately as lace, smooth as silk or as coarse as burlap. Modern hemp blends created today for the garment industry are cool to touch and comfortable to wear. While hemp garments are often comparatively more expensive than those made from cotton due to higher processing costs and limited quantities, its superiority is clear.

One of the most commonly known attributes about hemp fiber is its exceptional tensile strength which is 3X that of cotton. In addition, the fiber is naturally antimicrobial and resistant to ultraviolet light as well as mold, mildew, heat and insects which makes it excellent for outdoor wear. The fiber is not only many times more durable than cotton but warmer, softer and more water absorbent. This also makes hemp more absorbent to dyes and thus less prone to fading. Because of hemp’s superior insulating properties, it keeps you warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Hemp fibers actually soften with each washing without fiber degradation. Hemp production uses significantly less chemicals than cotton which makes it more sustainable and naturally more suitable for people with chemical sensitivities. The fiber is completely biodegradable, holds its shape as good as polyester but also has breathability. The fibers, which are naturally light in color, require little or no bleach.

Fiber to fabric:

While it is legal in the US to own hemp products such as clothing and foods derived from the plant, it is illegal to cultivate it here. This makes the US the only industrialized nation on earth that does not allow its production based on a law that does not make the distinction between industrial hemp from marijuana. All hemp fabric is therefore imported. The primary countries supplying hemp to the US include China, Hungary, Thailand, Romania and Chile with production coming from other nations including Australia, England, Canada and New Zealand as well.

The basic process of creating hemp fabric for garments is four fold:

-Separation of the fiber
-Spinning/Weaving the fiber into Yarn
-Cleaning/Softening
-Dyeing/Finishing

Centuries old traditional eco-friendly methods of mechanical hemp processing are still used in countries such as Romania and Hungary. Modern methods include chemical rather than mechanical processes which are faster, less labor intensive and ultimately less expensive. Unfortunately, there are manufacturers out there who are more interested in profits and as a result opt for the chemical methods as opposed to protecting the health of the consumer and our environment.

The process of separating the bast fibers from the stalk is called “retting”. The organic methods of separation are both natural and mechanical. The retting process breaks down pectin and lignin, the substances that glue the fibers to the stem core. Two natural retting techniques are dew and water retting. Both methods use a bacterial action to break down the glue, the former aided by dew or rain where as the later takes the bundled hemp and floats it in water to loosen the fiber from the stem.In dew retting, stalks are first cut in to 12-18″ lengths and are then left in the moist fields. In order for the stalks to dry, they are then racked together every few days followed by bailing when drying and retting is complete. The dew retting process takes approx. 2-3 weeks to finish based on weather conditions. In water retting, the stalks are soaked for approx. 20 days to loosen the fiber. This method produces a higher quality fiber but is costly and if the water is not disposed of properly can pollute the body of water used in the process. In both methods, the stems must also be monitored to avoid excessive degradation.

A seemingly primitive labor intensive mechanical process is called scutching Once the stems are removed and washed, they are beaten to remove the soft tissue. This is followed by drying so that only the fibers remain. More modern mechanical methods use steam and specially designed machinery on site to separate the fiber from the hurd (the pulp by-product after fiber is removed). In eastern Europe the primary means of processing rely on traditional organic methods including new cleaner biologically-based enzyme technology. In contrast, China, the worlds leading producer of hemp fabric uses chemical methods of processing.

Spinning hemp fiber in to yarn which is then weaved or knitted into garments is essentially the same for hemp processed by chemical or organic means. The only real difference between the two is the fiber length. Organic fibers are generally longer whereas chemically processed hemp becomes “cottonized” and tends to have short fiber. The spinning equipment may vary as a result but the process remains same.

Organic cleaning and softening methods and machinery are currently being researched and developed by ecologically-minded hemp textile manufacturers. This enables the fabric to remain organic and chemical free as well as retain its softness and durability, a characteristic that is often diminished using chemical means. The natural light color of hemp fiber prevents the need to use toxic chlorine bleach. If lightening is absolutely necessary, an eco-friendly non-toxic alternative is hydrogen peroxide.

The environmental friendliness involving the dyeing and finishing of hemp textile varies greatly around the world. In the US, there are laws in place which regulate the types of dyes and dyeing methods being used, especially in CA where many dye houses exist. The dye itself is another consideration. The toxic content of the dye as well as the disposal of excess dye and chemicals determine the measure of harm done to the environment. The proper disposal of the waste is of the utmost importance in order to minimize any potentially detrimental environmental effects.

Hemp garments can be dyed or left in a “natural” state, which means no dye at all. When left un-dyed, garments come in varying shades of beige which is the natural color of the hemp fibers after processing. An obvious consideration for a sustainable garment business would be to choose dyes which are the last harmful to the environment (such as low impact and fiber-reactive dyes made from natural components that are water soluble containing no heavy metals). In addition, it is essential to work with dye houses that use such dyes and employ strict ecological safety measures as well. Equally important is to eliminate or at least moderate the amount of synthesized chemicals used in the finishing process in an effort to increase the fabrics overall sustainability. Finishing can involve anything from applying compounds to improve smoothness, stiffness and strength to processes that change surface appearance and texture. Eco-friendly methods of both dyeing and finishing have been developed.

There are chemical processes that can be used at each stage of turning fiber into fabric and fabric into garments. We encourage transparency at every level from the field to the factory so merchants and consumers alike can make the most educated choices possible regarding the products they wish to either sell or wear. The process of growing is only half the equation when creating healthy organic and/or sustainable garments. The various stages of processing must be done using methods that take into consideration the health of both the environment and the consumer.

Conclusion:

Hemp can be considered in many ways nothing short of miraculous. This sustainable and easily renewable resource is used for food, clothing, energy and shelter (yes shelter, hemp is also used in making building materials). It’s no wonder why so many people and organizations have become passionate about spreading the message of hemp as a world saving plant! Supporting the growing hemp industry by purchasing apparel made from hemp can be considered by some a revolutionary act. I’m sure our founding fathers would agree, after all George Washington and Thomas Jefferson sowed hemp on their plantations! Make a statement and set an example by choosing hemp garments as part of your business and/or wardrobe today!

A hacker in a group that discovered the AT&T iPad-related flaw was arrested following the execution of an FBI search warrant of his home in Arkansas on Tuesday, authorities told ZDNet UK’s sister site CNET News. Drugs found in the bust included cocaine, ecstasy, LSD, and schedule 2 and 3 pharmaceuticals.  continued Hackers

Become a hacker - Visit the Hacker Forum and learn how to hack

Customs Gut Feeling Pays Off

An inquest heard the former bodybuilder, aged 42, thrashed around for 10 minutes as horrified girlfriend Nadine Beck tried desperately to restrain him before he turned ‘purply-blue’ and fell unconscious.

Former manager dies after secret cocaine binge

There is much that is odd about supernotes. Banknote specialist Klaus W. Bender points out that experts regard the print quality as “simply superb.” In some ways, Bender continues, “the supernotes are even better than the authentic 100-dollar bills of the Bureau of Engraving and Printing. Under the microscope, for example, the supernote shows an especially fine execution of lines on the facing side, which cannot be found on the real note. The complicated seal of the Department of the Treasury on the facing side is copied with absolute perfection, but just below it, one finds in the banknote numbering a marking compound that should not be there. And then, missing from this excellently copied supernote, of all things, are the magnetic and infrared security features that would prevent banknote examining systems from bouncing it. Every surveillance device of an American bank or the Fed recognizes the supernote immediately as a counterfeit and spits it out. Do the counterfeiters perhaps intend that the supernote be recognized immediately in the United States?”45 A report issued by the Swiss police concurs that the makers of the supernote seem to have deliberately introduced subtle errors into the process. Extra strokes have been added. When placed under ultraviolet or infrared light, stripes can be seen or numbers vanish on supernotes.

The most perplexing aspect of supernote production is their low quantity. By 2006, the Secret Service had seized $50 million in supernotes, an average of just $2.8 million per year since the first one was discovered. And since supernotes are usually detected the moment they enter the international banking system, the total quantity produced is probably not significantly higher. Supernotes make up a small percentage of the total counterfeit dollars in circulation. “To provide a point of reference,” said Michael Merritt of the U.S. Secret Service, “during fiscal year 2005, the Secret Service seized over $113 million in counterfeit U.S. currency.” Not only is the amount of supernotes small relative to less sophisticated counterfeits, but it is insignificant compared to the $760 billion in genuine U.S. currency in circulation.

The Swiss police observe, “What defies logic is the limited, or even controlled, amount of ‘exclusive’ fakes that have appeared over the years. The organization could easily circulate tenfold that amount without raising suspicions.” Yet a printing press “like the one in North Korea can produce $50 million worth of bills in a few hours.”48 During the 1970s, Giori replaced its standard model printers in a phased approach with its new “Super” series. The standard model was capable of printing three thousand sheets per hour. Each sheet held 32 notes. If North Korea purchased one of the older standard models, it would have taken just over five hours to produce $50 million. And $2.8 million a year would have required running the press for less than half an hour. Production would be done for the year. The newer Orlof press can spew out 12,000 sheets per hour, each sheet containing sixty notes. Only two and a half minutes would be needed to generate $2.8 million in notes.49 Clearly, supernotes are being produced for a very specific purpose.

Also difficult to explain is the speed with which supernotes have kept pace with the numerous modifications made to U.S. engraving plates since 1989. This in itself is a prohibitively expensive process. German banknote specialist Klaus W. Bender remarks, “The counterfeiters immediately implemented each and every change to the 100-dollar bill. The pace at which they put out their revised fake notes made observers even wonder whether they had access to information concerning to the speed with which the Fed replaced its old notes.” The microprint in U.S. currency sometimes measures only 1/42,000 of an inch. “This microprint is considered unique in the world of banknotes. It was reproduced so perfectly by the counterfeiters that even under a microscope no difference is distinguishable. The gravure of an intaglio printing plate requires many months of hard work and eats up many tens of thousands of dollars per plate. For security reasons, the craft is always taught in-house only. So where do the counterfeiters get this specialized knowledge?”

Just who is producing supernotes? Initially, the U.S. accused Iran and Syria, even though the latter country did not have a banknote press of its own. Then North Korea was identified as the culprit. While it cannot be ruled out that North Korea is producing supernotes, that prospect raises the question of motive. By the reckoning of the U.S. Secret Service, supernotes pose a low threat, given the small amounts in circulation and the preponderant distribution outside of U.S. borders. Furthermore, supernotes are identified the moment they hit the U.S. banking system, which would seem to rule out the motivation of “economic warfare” that has been attributed to North Korea.

Nor does the production of supernotes make sense as a profit-making venture. A single new Giori printing machine now costs more than the $50 million in supernotes found so far. To give some idea of the expense, when Nigeria opened its second printing plant in Abuja, it cost more than $135 million, and that does not take into account property costs. A plant to produce the type of paper used in supernotes is similarly expensive and large quantities of the proper type of paper would have to be manufactured to avoid ongoing financial loss. OVI ink is also quite expensive, even more so since most of the ink is lost when the printing plates are wiped clean just before pressing the paper. Factor in the cost of keeping up with multiple changes to the engravings, and no sane individual would undertake such a daunting operation to produce limited quantities with an eye to making a profit.

U.S. officials like to point out that they have seen no evidence that any nation other than North Korea is producing supernotes. True enough, but neither is there any evidence that North Korea is doing so. By all accounts, such an operation would require the resources of a government or governmental organization. Klaus W. Bender suggests one intriguing possibility. “One notices that the supernotes always turn up in small, well-measured quantities, as though their volume were controlled.” This is not how normal counterfeiters behave. “They want to unload their hot goods as quickly as possible. Further, experts believe they have determined that the supernotes regularly crop up in those regions in which U.S. foreign policy is just encountering problems: the Near and Middle East, central African countries, and especially East Africa. Active in these places are opposition politicians, rebelling tribes, and private armies of diverse warlords doing the bidding of the CIA. Could it be that they are being paid for their services in counterfeit dollar notes?” Bender posits that such groups might use the money to purchase arms abroad, including from North Korea, and that from North Korea the money would make its way back to Western nations. “It is not clear how much the U.S. Secret Service knows itself, or is allowed to know.” The CIA is said to have a printing plant located north of Washington, DC, in which the same Giori printing presses are installed that are used in the Bureau of Engraving and Printing.

It has also been suggested that limited quantities of counterfeit notes are being introduced into the market in such a way as to assist law enforcement agencies in tracking the movement of funds among criminal and terrorist organizations. Everything is speculation at this point in time, but of all the various scenarios that have been suggested, it is this last one that is the most plausible. It is the only one where all of the pieces fit together into a coherent whole.

About the author:
Gregory Elich is on the Board of Directors of the Jasenovac Research Institute and on the Advisory Board of the Korea Truth Commission. He is the author of the book Strange Liberators: Militarism, Mayhem, and the Pursuit of Profit.

More info on the cia producing the super note: http://www.alternet.org/blogs/peek/46786/more_on_(the_cia’s)_counterfeit_%22supernotes%22/

and even more: http://xiaodongpeople.blogspot.com/2008/01/mysterious-100-supernote-counterfeit.html

That’s among the findings of a scathing report into sloppy security at government warehouses, where some $400 million of seized contraband is sent each year by the Canada Border Services Agency.

“Security and access control to storage facilities were below standard and storage requirements for drugs, firearms and ammunition were not consistently met,” says the internal audit.

“Inventory control was inadequate.”

Investigators examined supposedly secure facilities - known as Queen’s warehouses or bond rooms - in the province of Quebec, and in the Toronto and Windsor, Ont., regions, where many of the 30,000 border seizures each year are made.

More than half of all seizures are drugs, alcohol and tobacco. The rest includes child pornography, firearms, ammunition and jewelry. The report notes that seized items are rarely suitable for sale on the government’s online auction site, creating a continuing storage and disposal challenge.

The audit, completed last month, cites a long litany of shoddy security practices for the 68 facilities inspected, at airports, land border crossings and postal plants.

“Physical security was below standard for half of the interior facilities and all of the exterior facilities,” the report says.

For example, 70 per cent of the warehouses or bond rooms were not continuously monitored, whether by guards, cameras or motion detectors.

And at 15 facilities, the agency did not control access by non-government persons. Twenty-three of the sites had no inventory control whatsoever.

Seized drugs were a particular problem: paperwork was missing, there were no safes for storage at most facilities, and many drugs were kept in storage far too long, for years in some cases.

Government policy requires the border agency to turn over most prohibited drugs to the RCMP for eventual incineration - but workers were unaware of the requirement, says the report.

“Employees working in Queen’s warehouses … did not know they should not destroy these drugs.”

Destruction, in most cases, involved tossing pills and bags of dope into the garbage for a trip to the local landfill.

Investigators noted that court cases could be compromised by the sloppy storage, tracking and inventory of seized goods - damaging the “sterility of the chain of custody,” which guards against the contamination or tampering of evidence.

A 1998 internal audit of the warehouses found strikingly similar weaknesses. And in 2007 the auditor general also raised the alarm.

“We noted poor control over the administration and handling of seized goods, such as alcohol and firearms,” Sheila Fraser reported to Parliament.

“We observed unrestricted access to seizure rooms at two locations.”

Despite earlier commitments to fix those problems, the February audit said there has been “further degradation” of security.

The agency says it has taken measures that over the next year will resolve most of the problems - including a requirement that regions report by this Tuesday on their immediate corrective actions.

The agency declined to say whether any employees had ever been charged with theft in connection with missing contraband, citing the Privacy Act.

Nor did a spokeswoman indicate whether any court cases had been compromised as a result of poor security or inventory controls.

“A thorough review of the areas examined in the audit will be completed over 2009, which will provide further direction on introducing stronger mechanisms for managing goods and improving security at ports of entry,” Tracie LeBlanc said in an email.

full story continues: http://www.reuters.com/article/vcCandidateFeed1/idUSN28271427

A smuggler piloting the 25-foot boat promised a short ride before landing on a beach in San Diego. 

Full story here: http://www.latimes.com/news/local/la-me-smuggling-boats29-2009mar29,0,6958482.story